(I also thought I'd document all of this in the hope that it helps someone else who does the job next. I've only had my 80 for 3 weeks but this forum and its members have been such a help. I'm not sure where I would be on my CBX without the forum and all who have answered my questions.)
From previous posts it seemed like the rattle was either the clutch plates or bearings. While addressing these two things I thought I'd replace the brushes and give the cases a polish.
Supplies needed: 2 bearings 6201 and 6203, bearing oil seal, alternator rotor spindle o-ring, alternator cover gasket, rear case rubber seal, wet and dry paper 120, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit, Mothers aluminum polish.
First disconnect the alternator plug from behind the right side panel.
Remove the front sproket cover as you'll need the space to get the alternator wire.
Remove the alternator cover bolts at the 10, 2 and 6 o'clock positions. Unscrew each one a turn at a time as the alternator is under pressure from the spring pressing against the clutch plates.
While holding the alternator with one hand pull through the alternator wire. This is where the removal of the sprocket cover will help.
With the alternator on the bench undo the remaining 3 bolts from the outer case.
Gently pull the outer case off as the alternator brush holder is attached inside.
This is what the inner case looks like full of brush dust.
Undo the 2 brush holder bolts and remove the cover.
The inner cover will be then left as you see below with the alternator intact. To get to the inner bearing you need to remove the nut holding on the driven clutch plate. When I tried to do this the nut that you see here on the rotor spindle came off instead!
Only way to get the clutch plate nut off is with an air impact wrench. I took mine to my local car repair shop and Brrrrrp, Brrrrp, Brrrrp and it was off!
You can now pull on the spindle you see here and the rotor will come out.
With a little jiggling the stator will also come free.
Next up is to remove the inner bearing retainer plate. The 3 philips screws are on tight so have someone hold the case while you give your impact wrench a good sharp whack with a hammer.
You also need to get rid of that pesky gasket which is stuck on. I used Permatex gasket remover to help soften up the gasket and then a wood chisel and a scotch brite pad.
Removing the bearing from the outer case was pretty straight forward which surprised me after viewing many posts where it was stuck in hard. I heated mine with a propane tourch for a minute and it just dropped out. Lucky me.
This picture shows one of the clutch plates which ressembles a worn brake rotor.
I used 120 grit wet and dry with WD40 as lubricant and in a figure of 8 pattern sanded down both plates until the majority of the scoring had been removed.
Now to the case polishing. To get the original paint off I used paintstripper. Dab it on and leave for an hour to do it's work. It will get most of the paint off but in the nooks and crannies you will have to use wet and dry to remove it completely.
I'd bought a cheap polishing kit from Eastwood which had worked well on my clutch case but on the alternator cover it was not so successful due to all the little corners that needed to be polished. I'd read in another post to use wet and dry and Mothers polish so I gave it a shot. I went from 1000 grit to 1500 and then 2000. It's a bit worrying at first because it makes the case look very dull but with the Mothers it polished up great. Better than the clutch cover actually.
Before putting everything back together you'll need to seat the new bearings and oil seal. I put the bearings in the freezer over night and then in the morning (when the wife was out) set the oven at 250 and put both cases in for 30 minutes. Both bearings just dropped in. No tools needed at all. The oil seal was pressed in using the back side of a large socket. The oil seal o-ring can now be replaced on the alternator shaft.
Replace the bearing retainer and tighten up the 3 screws with your impact driver.
Now insert the alternator rotor shaft through the inner case bearing and oil seal as you see below.
Put back on the clutch plate and tighten the nut to 30 ft lbs.
Next replace the brushes. Here's an old and a new one. My originals were not that worn but I decided to replace them anyway and keep the old ones as spares in my tool pouch.
Now refit the stator to the inner case aligning the wire boot with the flat area on the case that corresponds with the boot slot on the outer case.
Position the brush holder in the outer case and tighten up the two 10mm bolts.
Match the inner and outer cases together and replace the 3 bolts that hold the 2 halfs.
Insert the large diameter rubber seal into its grove on the back side of the inner case.
Thread the alternator wire and plug between the engine and carbs towards the right side.
Position the alternator against the engine and replace the other 3 bolts tightening each one in turn until the alternator is tight agianst the engine.
Re-attach the alternator cable socket to its counterpart behind the right side cover.
Job done!
