Weaving In The High Speed Sweepers

[alimey4u2]

I have mine the best it's ever been at going around bends & over rough terrain. Just gotta cure the high speed ( +85 mph) straight line weave which has suddenly occured. It's either tires ( my suspicion is the high profile front) or a higher center of gravity due to stiff fork springs &/or different seat.
Going back to basics & put my original springs in & getting a nice fellow to make he headstock tools to ensure my headrace is torqued perfectly. Going out with my full race leathers on to see if it was possibly my flapping leather jacket that was causing the problem.... Weather is now co-operating but wifey wants me to do this & to do that, friends are coming over this weekend... Yadi Yadi Ya... I just have such a small window these days to try things out

[Mike Barone #123]

The CB1100F swingarm should be an easy bolt-on to an 1980. They both had a 16mm axle. 1979 would be difficult as they had a 14mm swingarm axle and you either have to drill out the frame holes or have someone make you a 16 to 14mm reduction sleeve to use the stock swingarm axle

One would think so . . . . but if I recall correctly, Dave had more difficulty putting the 1100F swingarm on the '80 model than he did on my '79

For my '79, all it required was having a sleeve machined and then everything fit perfectly but on the '80 model, there were some side to side clearance issues which had to be addressed

Dave will sort them out for you if you PM him . . . . or wait here for his response

Don

Mike.....I agree

Don......When the 1100f front and back transplant was done on the 1980 Dawgie in the early to mid 90s.....(I am guessing years before anyone else did this and forget exact date).....I think I had no issues to sort out at this time putting the entire 1100f back on other the grease caps having to be filed down a weeeeee bit. It was late at night at Bob Buehlers when this got done....maybe few beers clouded my memory

[Mike Barone #123]

Sheesh, after reading all this, one might think that CBXs are all too dangerous to ride So, after personally riding about 30,000 miles on my 79 (50,000 total) and nearly 40,000 miles on my 82 (96,000 miles total) I guess I...shouldn't have

Come on guys, are they really that bad Compared to most other bikes of the same era, wouldn't you (we) do the same things to them after 30 years Things like better fork oil and springs, better brake lines and pads, better tires and better shocks You're scaring off the new guys you know

Hummmmmmm....I agree there needs to be a better and more complete perspective on this. Here is my attempt on this based what I have experienced and can confirm with first face to face discussions with other CBX owners and actually observed when riding with or behind other stock/near stock early model CBXs over the last 30 years.

Early model confirmed handling issues that I know personally about and have heard from other owners:
1. Weaving on straights at 85+ mph does happen

2. Near or total tank slappers on straights at 85+ mph does happen and is more likely to happen going over a subtle undulation in the road on the straightaway.

3. Near or total tank slappers in sweepers at 75+ mph does happen and is more likely to happen going over a subtle undulation in the turn.

My 80 started the handling bad habits at about 3,000 miles and within six months each item (1-3 above) occurred.


Early model confirmed reports related to not having handling issues that I have heard from other owners
1. Not every early model has these issues....infact some owners report not having any of the handling problems stated above

2. Not only have there been many owners that have reported none of these handling issues but there are documented cases where stock/near stock early model CBXs withy 35mm forks were infact road raced with success.


Accurate Perspective
I believe the above is an accurate perspective........the perspective that every current and future CBX early model owner should know. In the end it all comes down to CBXers stating a problem and everyone having their say....then we all decide what if anything we want to do about the problem for ourselves, if anything.....and that is the value of this forum to each of us.


My "On The Record" Declaration Related to Stock Early Model Handling
I will formally go on record in saying if you have a stock or near stock early model CBX and go above 85mph on straights or 75mph in sweepers...... you could be risking your life.


The Fix
The fix is easy and not expensive. Late model 39mm forks to fix the wobbles .......and when you are at it install the Race Tech Gold Valve for a massive improvement in front end feel and handling performance. Keep the early model brakes or upgrade them when you do this or later.


My Personal View
We each have our own personal view of the CBX and mine starts with the simple concept that Honda defined what the market, design, handling and performance objectives for early model CBX and these did not include owners limiting the speed to 85mph on straights and 75mph in sweepers due to handling issues. Fix the handling issues and ride the ride on the CBX the way Honda intended was my approach. It all worked out.

Nor have I ever accepted the concept that an ole early model CBX that handles should avoid street group rides or track days where newer bikes are the norm...and guess what... this also has worked out every single time ...and to the great surprise of a few on these rides with the newest/latest/greatest bikes of today

In saying all this...I want to emphasize this is my view on my 1980 CBX ....and .....the neat thing is each of us can have our own view(s) and none of them have to be the same......and we all can still get along.

I want to personally thank everyone for their views on this topic and ofcourse all other topics like this on our forum.....this is exactly what being a CBXer and being a member of ICOA is and always has been about. Sharing, helping and friendship.


Mike

.

[alimey4u2]

Stunning, yes stunning on corners ( no R1 mind you) compared to original. Nice & well planted feel on the front end...
High speed weave less noticable with race leathers although traffic was abysmal & high speeds could not be achieved safely...

Next week looks dry, watch this space.....

[bdento59]

When doing the CB1100F SA conversion, how much of the CB1100F (pivot bolt setup) stuff, if any, do I need to use in order to mate the new SA with the old frame?

Soooooooo.... rehijacking my own thread for the second time <bfg> When doing the CB1100F SA conversion, how much of the CB1100F (pivot bolt setup) stuff, if any, do I need to use in order to mate the new SA with the old frame? I do not have the 1100F "collar" (COLLAR, RR.
52141-425-830 $73.06). Do I need this, or can I use the CB-X SA collar? TIA

[cbxtacy]

I had an 1100F at one time, and here's a collar my loving wife (Kayeboo) got me at our wedding



do you think she was trying to tell me something? (Oop's, was this a hijack?)

[cbx6ss]

One solution; Don't go so fast :^)
Yeah; Right...
/r
B

[Terry]

That never seems to work for me...but mine handles just fine anyway!

[daves79x]

Bill:
Sorry I've gotten behind on this thread. The 1100F swingarm IS NOT a bolt-on to the '80 CBX. You DO need the 1100F collar - can't imagine why yours didn't come with one. I don't know where you can find one of those separately. Anyway, you need the entire 1100F pivot ass'y - dust caps and all. The dimension of the 1100F swingarm without the dust caps is exactly the same as the stock '80 one. You will find that the F arm won't fit between the frame bosses. Since the right side is the 'fixed' side that centers the whole thing, you need to file/grind enough off that side to allow the arm to fit in with some play. The dust caps measure .078 inch thick, so the right side fixed collar needs either shimmed out .078 or grind .078 off the collar. I used a strand of 500mcm copper wire that happened to measure .078 and put it behind the fixed collar and tightened it down on that. Then the swingarm with dust caps will be centered in the frame. Then you tighten down the left collar as usual. There are other ways, but that is the easiest. I made no permanent mods (except grinding a bit from the right frame boss) so the bike can be returned to stock.

My swingarm then lined up perfectly and the sprocket alignment is right on. This is why you need all the 1100F swingarm parts to begin. The 1100F brake and chain guard bolt right up as well. You also need the complete set of 1100F adjusters, axle, wheel and hub and spacers. With all that, it will fall together. If you are missing any of those parts, you may as well find them before starting because there is no substitute for any of them.

Wish we would have had time to go over the conversion as my black bike was in the display tent at Mid-Ohio. It would have been much easier than trying to describe it here. Good luck.



Dave

[Mike Barone #123]

Bill:
Sorry I've gotten behind on this thread. The 1100F swingarm IS NOT a bolt-on to the '80 CBX. You DO need the 1100F collar - can't imagine why yours didn't come with one. I don't know where you can find one of those separately. Anyway, you need the entire 1100F pivot ass'y - dust caps and all. The dimension of the 1100F swingarm without the dust caps is exactly the same as the stock '80 one. You will find that the F arm won't fit between the frame bosses. Since the right side is the 'fixed' side that centers the whole thing, you need to file/grind enough off that side to allow the arm to fit in with some play. The dust caps measure .078 inch thick, so the right side fixed collar needs either shimmed out .078 or grind .078 off the collar. I used a strand of 500mcm copper wire that happened to measure .078 and put it behind the fixed collar and tightened it down on that. Then the swingarm with dust caps will be centered in the frame. Then you tighten down the left collar as usual. There are other ways, but that is the easiest. I made no permanent mods (except grinding a bit from the right frame boss) so the bike can be returned to stock.

My swingarm then lined up perfectly and the sprocket alignment is right on. This is why you need all the 1100F swingarm parts to begin. The 1100F brake and chain guard bolt right up as well. You also need the complete set of 1100F adjusters, axle, wheel and hub and spacers. With all that, it will fall together. If you are missing any of those parts, you may as well find them before starting because there is no substitute for any of them.

Wish we would have had time to go over the conversion as my black bike was in the display tent at Mid-Ohio. It would have been much easier than trying to describe it here. Good luck.

Dave

Yupppp starting with a complete 1100f rear assembly as I stated in my prior post did it 15 or so years ago. Buying just the 1100f arm off ebay or somewhere and hopefully pulling all the necessary 1100f other parts together over time is a very, very tough way to go about this.

Sidebar 1:
When I took equal amounts off each dust cap, this put it off by .039" if I understood your post Dave....... I knew something was not right all this time!!!!

Sidebar 2:
Butttttttttttttt I have to ask it......can even you measure the line up of a 80 CBX swingarm and sprocket to a weeeeeeee bit more than twice the thickness of a fingernail!

[EMS]

Bill:
. You DO need the 1100F collar - .... The dimension of the 1100F swingarm without the dust caps is exactly the same as the stock '80 one. You will find that the F arm won't fit between the frame bosses. Since the right side is the 'fixed' side that centers the whole thing, you need to file/grind enough off that side to allow the arm to fit in with some play. The dust caps measure .078 inch thick, so the right side fixed collar needs either shimmed out .078 or grind .078 off the collar. I used a strand of 500mcm copper wire that happened to measure .078 and put it behind the fixed collar and tightened it down on that. Then the swingarm with dust caps will be centered in the frame. Then you tighten down the left collar as usual. There are other ways, but that is the easiest. I made no permanent mods (except grinding a bit from the right frame boss) so the bike can be returned to stock.




Dave

Right now, it seems I am a little lost. How can shimming of the collar solve the problem if the total width of the 11F swingarm across the dustcaps is too large to fit into the 80 frame??? Or is the terminology "collar" the problem here? In the parts diagram, "collar" is part-no 10.

[alimey4u2]

The 80 has frame mounted screw in bushings Mike...

[Mike Barone #123]

Right now, it seems I am a little lost. How can shimming of the collar solve the problem if the total width of the 11F swingarm across the dustcaps is too large to fit into the 80 frame??? Or is the terminology "collar" the problem here? In the parts diagram, "collar" is part-no 10.

Mike...count me in on what you said.

Maybe if we have some CBXs at the Brookville PA Rally in September that have complete 1100f back ends installed on CBXs we an go over all this.

I have typed more about this the last couple of days than it took put the entire 1100f front and back on the Dawgie 15 or so years ago.

[daves79x]

This is very hard to explain on paper. Mike S - you are confusing some parts I didn't describe very well. First, you need a parts fiche of the '80 swingarm - it's the same pivot set-up as the Pro-Links that you are familiar with.

The screw-in collar on the right side of the frame is the fixed, centering point for the swingarm. The stock '80 arm has the metal collars on each side of the pivot that the screw-in collars tighten against. The 1100F arm is exactly the same width at the pivot as the stock arm and collars. Problem is that the 1100F has dust caps added to each side which adds almost 1/10th inch to each side. On most '80 frames, this added width won't allow the 1100F arm to slide in. Even if it did, the F arm would be off-center by the width of the dust cap. So that's why the right side frame boss needs relieved a bit to (A) get the F arm to even slip in, and (B) to allow the arm to be centered. Again, to do this you need to either shim out the screw-in fixed frame collar on the right side the .078 inch, or grind that much off the mating side of the collar.

All-in-all not too bad once you realize what needs done, but to me, the installation of the F arm is easier on the '79. All you need to do is have a new F collar machined to accept the 14mm pivot bolt instead of the stock 16mm bore. Then it's bolt-on, as the stock '79 arm had the dust caps also.

Hope that explains the conversion more clearly.

Dave

[EMS]

Hope that explains the conversion more clearly.

Dave

Yes, it does, Dave. And after looking at the Prolink swingarm parts diagram, I understand what you are saying now. Thanks!