Tilting the Engine in a more stable way

[thomasgeorgi]

I have tilted the engine on my 79 several times. I've never been happy with the stability of the process as I lower the engine. I've used a scissor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan, but as I start to lower it it reaches a point where the whole bike starts to move forward and off the center stand. The last time I used two scissor jacks; one under the oil pan with a wood block and the other with an eyebolt with a rod passed thru the two holes on either side of the oil filter. The result was the same. I passed a ratchet strap through the holes in the center stand and then through the front wheel just for the added stability when I got it down; but haven't tried lowering it that way. I have several ratchet straps. What do you think of using them passed through the frame and under the engine to raise and lower it? Without spending a lot what do you recommend and how do you do it?

[Keith64]

I use a small hydraulic floor jack with a block of wood between it and the oil filter. I haven't had a stability issue. The jack is on rollers if it does move I haven't noticed.

[Larry Zimmer]

Same as Keith. Use a floor jack with a 3'8"/9mm rod passed through the holes of the two bosses aside the oil filter. If there is any fore-aft movement, the wheeled floor jack accommodates. Never had an issue.

[cross]

You don't want to use scissor jack, get a floor jack with wheels on it and piece of wood between engine and the jack.
I align jack under the center of the engine sump towards the front, not the oil filter housing

[Rick Pope]

A long time ago, before we had this forum, we had had a list serve. One codger who frequented there, and many of us know well, was Dave Ditner. He once described a simple, stable, way to tilt the motor......

Tighten the drive chain until there is NO slack. Remove engine mounts, cables, loosen carb boots, etc. Now simply loosen the drive chain adjusters evenly, and a little at a time, lowering the motor to the desired location. Just like in the manual, except you use the drive chain as your "jack".

I've never done it, but it has to work, 'cause Dave said it does. And I never found Dave to be wrong.

BTW, has anyone heard from Dave lately? Ed Perkins was asking about him last week.

[Larry Zimmer]

I'd have to do the 'math' on that idea. Seems it would put quite a load onto the chain adjusters; especially, the left side. Also, perhaps, quite a load onto the output shaft bearing. Last thing wanted is to brinell the bearing races. I think I'd stay with the 3/8" rod through the machining bosses and floor jack.

[cross]

I would think that would put quiet bit strain on other parts too!
I like to take drive chain off of sprocket so that the engine tilts forward all the way. This gives me more room to work.
Next time I'll try Larry's advice with rod on machining bosses


Sasha

[Larry Zimmer]

After looking at the 'geometry' of things, the 'chain tilt' might be OK with respect to doing any damage. However, I do still go with the rod and floor jack. Doing so doesn't put a strain onto anything. Those two bosses are strictly for machining the lower case. So, won't put a load onto any mating or internal parts.

[thomasgeorgi]

Thanks for your advise. Always helpful.