Valve cover cosmetics

[andy]

The original finish looks great, but the clear lacquer typically deteriorates. Should I strip and polish and leave bare (which will need constant rubbing) or how do I re-create the factory satin-look and clear it permanent?

[EMS]

Andy: I have the covers on both my CBXes polished and they are doing fine. Actually, polished aluminum does not require THAT much constant rubbing. Other than magnesium, it does not oxydize at an accelerated pace. Use a good polish (Mother's or Mequiar's) and the polish protects quite a bit. The polisher recommended against clearcoating, because,he said, you will start getting oxydation under the clearcoat in form of the infamous "spider-webs" pretty soon. I had the covers done three years ago and they still look like new.

[B8mn1]

EMS,

What / how did you polish the valve covers? Were they commercially striped, chemically striped or did you do them by hand?

I have had limited luck (read hard work) using super fine steel wool and chrome polish, but this process would be to difficult on the valve cover.

Thanks for the great info.

Ben

[EMS]

Ben: I have to admit, I took the easy way out and had them done by a guy who does this for a living. (North Royalton Polishing). Although he charged me $100.00 for both covers, I felt the money was well spent. Not only did I save myself a lot of scrubbing on the parts - I guess the lousy part is getting the clearcoat off - but looking at the guy, I also saved scrubbing on myself. He looked like a chimney-sweep. He also was the guy who told me not to clearcoat them. As an example, he showed me a polished Edelbrook intake plenum from a hotrod that he had polished three years before and just let sit. It was still perfect.

[Jeff Dean]

EMS- do you have a closeup picture of that 3 year old valve cover. I've seen your album, so I know you tolorate nothing but 1st class. But I'd like to see that cover, also-is it on a rider?? JJD

[EMS]

Jeff: Are you ever lucky. Just had the engine tilted and the cover removed for a valve job. Will take a picture this weekend and mail it to you or post it somewhere.

[EMS]

Jeff:



here is one pic. Check at home for more.





http://www.cbxworld.com/images/upload/CBXvlvcvr1b.JPG

[Guest]

I did the cam cover, cam end caps, crank end caps, alternator cover, ignition advancer cover and carb tops on my 81 3 years ago. Can't remember what stripper I used but it was a slow process. Seems like the clear coat Honda used was impervious to damn near everything but bug splat. After I got the old stuff off, I hand finished all the above parts starting with 150 grit sandpaper, progressing to 220 and finishing with 00 steel wool. Very time consuming. Had over 40 hours in the cam cover alone. Found the right stuff to finish it with. Dupli-Color makes a clear engine enamel in a rattle can (Clear DE 1636) that really did a good job. Looks as good now as it did when I first put it on. Vowed never again to to it that way so bought a cabinet blaster. Next one will be much faster.

A tip if you're going to do the carb tops. Go to your nearest hobby shop that does radio controlled cars and buy a small bottle of liquid latex masking. They paint it on the inside of the lexan bodies they use when spraying them. Paint it on the lower portion of the carb tops that come in contact with the carb body so no paint will adhere there. The slides will bind if the carb tops are not perfectly flat on the bodies. When you're done applying the finish coats and everything is dry, all you have to do is peel the latex film off and you're good to go.

[Dave Ditner]

Forgot to login. Post above is from me

[andy]

Well, w/ the valve cover off for overdue clearance check (last time I peaked it was 13,000 miles ago, found 3 were big, 1 tight) the corrosion looked yuckier than I could stand, so I stripped it w/ ZIP Strip paste, etched w/ hydroflouric acid, rubbed w/ Mothers Mag and Aluminun polish and 000 steel wool and a toothbrush, buffed w/ a couple of rags, hey it don't look bad. Took 3 hours to polish. My spark plugs, BTW, after 13,000 miles had NO electrodes, nice tan color at least. CBX never missed a beat.

[Hobbes]

Well, w/ the valve cover off for overdue clearance check (last time I peaked it was 13,000 miles ago, found 3 were big, 1 tight) the corrosion looked yuckier than I could stand, so I stripped it w/ ZIP Strip paste, etched w/ hydroflouric acid, rubbed w/ Mothers Mag and Aluminun polish and 000 steel wool and a toothbrush, buffed w/ a couple of rags, hey it don't look bad. Took 3 hours to polish. My spark plugs, BTW, after 13,000 miles had NO electrodes, nice tan color at least. CBX never missed a beat.

Hi Andy!

I saw your post about stripping and polishing the cover on your cbx- which is just what I want to do...

I don't know anything about how to go about it, though, and I had a couple of questions:

I've heard that you can strip it chemically, like you did, but I've never heard of the hydroflouric acid. Do I have to to that, and if so, can you buy that stuff pre-made, or do I have to get it full strength and then dilute it, etc.

Anyway, I enjoyed your post, and if you have a little more info about the whole process and the hydroflouric acid in particular, I'd be much obliged.

Thanks for your time, and your knowledge!

All the best,

-Ed Holm

[andy]

Hydroflouric acid is wire wheel cleaner, strong stuff, made to spritz chrome rims NOT CLEARCOAT SAFE! Used on bare aluminun, it etches the metal and "skims" it, and evens it out, also leaves it dull but clean. Wear protection on hands and eyes, its acid (vapors real nasty). Rinses w/ water. Great for cleaning chrome bits and really bad aluminun wheels that have turned black. Will ruin some painted surfaces, as in clearcoated rims.

[Land_Shark]

Do yourself a favour and bring all your covers in to a professional polisher. I had all my covers done for $550.00 canadian; guy charged $50 per hour and took him (obviously) 11 hours to do EVERYTHING. Valve covers, crank end covers, alternator cover, cam end covers, ignition cover (x2 actually had an extra), oil hose cover, oil filter cover, oil sump cover. They all turned out amazing - which just goes to show you what a reputable professional can accomplish

[texascbx]

This acid referred to is very strong.Truck washes used to use it on aluminum cattle trailers and it removes oxidation and some aluminum.It turns aluminum white which then requires polishing anyway to make it shiny.Take your parts to a good car wash and wash them under wheel setting,then get some B-12 Chemtool carb cleaner in a spray.It will remove most of the clearcoat,then wash again.It will polish pretty easily by hand if you ever get the clearcoat off.Trying to polish off the baked on clearcoat will wear you out and do not use a wire brush in any kind of power tool as the aluminum is very soft.The cleartcoat will stand up to hand polishing while the aluminum is pretty soft and will polish easy with a dremil tool and those little polishing rolls.Use Brasso for polishing and you will be amazed.Only thing is it will oxidize pretty quick without a good hightemp clearcoat.That valve cover get pretty hot.The very best thing is take it to a chromer and be done with it and it looks awesome.Or just clean it real good with degreaser,wash it with Tide real good,and paint it with high temp aluminum paint.

[andy]

After much research, I am sending all aluminum covers to HPC, and get the polished aluminum finish. Its actually ceramic and used on aircraft, show vehicles, exhaust etc. Extremely durable, 2 temp ranges available. Check out website.

http://www.hpcoatings.com/hipercoat.htm